It was All Aboard time at 7:45 that morning, since we were setting sail for our next stop – Libourne. Not having any morning excursions allowed for some free time for the first half of the day, so we could enjoy the early-day sights up the Garonne River and over to Libourne on the Dordogne River.
Once we were docked in Libourne, we hopped on the motor coach and drove to St. Emilion. What a beautiful town – I’m already trying to figure out when I can get back there!
St. Emilion was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999. Known for its narrow and steep streets, this medieval city has a tall bell tower above an underground monolithic church in the middle of town.
We began our afternoon in St. Emilion with a walking tour through town that started at a Romanesque perimeter wall that was built in the 13th century.
We walked into town and arrived at the Saint-Émilion Collegial Catholic Church and its cloisters. Construction began in 1110, and it was used as a monastery between the 12th and 18th centuries.
From there, we were fortunate enough to be able to take part in a tour of the monuments in St. Emilion. This area is not open to the public unless you are on a private tour with a licensed tour guide. Now for the unfortunate part: since the monuments are privately owned by families in the region, no photography was allowed, however , here are a few pictures I grabbed online.
Hermitage of St. Emilion – St. Emilion was a Benedictine monk who lived as a hermit in this underground limestone cave. Legend has it that a woman sat in the chair on the left and prayed for a child, so it became known as the “fertility chair” – I didn’t go anywhere close to it!Trinity Chapel with medieval frescoes dating to the early 14th century. The columns in the underground monolithic church now have reinforcements added to ensure the structural integrity of the church. Catacombs leading into the church. The construction of the church was completed around the 12th century and was carved from a single block of limestone. Doors leading to the exit of the church.
I highly recommend you take a tour to view the monuments, if you’re ever in the area. It was truly amazing!
Following our tour of the St. Emilion monuments, we had a little time to wander through the streets and take in the sights.
The initial construction of the bell tower was added above the monolithic church in the 12th century, but was expanded and increased in height in the 15th century.
So, no trip to the St. Emilion area would be complete without doing some wine tasting!
To end our day we went to a Grand Cru Wine Classé wine tasting at Château de Ferrand. The history of the winery spans over 300 years being passed down through the Bétoulaud family. However, in 1977, it was purchased by Marcel Bich – founder of the BIC pen company. (You’ll notice the BIC pens and caps in some of the pictures!)
Château de Ferrand’s grape varieties are 70% merlot, 29% cabernet franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Now, to enjoy the wines!
We ended up shipping some wine home: I ordered a bottle of the 2007 and the 2016, and everyone else ordered two bottles each of the 2016. Can’t wait to drink them!
It was a perfect day discovering a new (and delicious) wine region! Cheers until the next blog entry!
Our adventure continued with a goodbye to our home for the week aboard the Amalyra and a hello to our home for the next week aboard the Amadolce. The two ships were exactly alike aside from the lounge decorations and crews.
To get from the Amalyra in Paris to the Amadolce in Bordeaux, we rode the bullet train that only took about two hours.
The train station in Paris was a flurry of people.Our captain was there to greet us.
Since we weren’t setting sail until the next morning, Pops, Tomi, and I decided to explore a little bit of Bordeaux before dinner that evening. We set off on foot to go see a fountain and monument my Mom and Pops had seen in Bordeaux during a prior visit in 2023.
Before reaching the monument itself, we walked through the Places des Quincones which is one of the largest city squares in Europe. Trees were planted on each side of the square in 1818. The sound of the wind blowing through the trees was beautiful.
On the front end of the square was a ferris wheel that we later found out was only temporary, since it was being dismantled when we drove past it later in the week.
After passing the ferris wheel, we walked through the pebbles of the square before arriving at the fountain we had gone in search of.
The fountain known as Monument aux Girondins was built between 1894 and 1902 to commemorate the Girondists, a political faction of the French Revolution who were executed in 1793 during the Reign of Terror. The fountain includes the Angel of Liberty at the very top of the monument, along with bronze sculptures of horses, cherubs, and figures surging forward to symbolize the energy of revolution and the spirit of freedom.
After visiting the fountain, we decided to take a coffee/wine break. Again, you get to guess who had what!
After our drink stop at a nearby cafe, we set off again to explore. Cities in Europe are so interesting to walk through. The views provided on foot are always so much better than when you drive.
We wandered in to a beautiful church that was built between 1874-1880 known as Saint Louis des Chartrons.
When we made it back to the boat, we had already decided we wanted to eat dinner that evening at a place my Mom and Pops had eaten at during their 2023 visit to Bordeaux. Pops had remembered this place because of the profiteroles they had eaten there, so we, of course, were happy to oblige and try it out.
But first: I wanted to include a few pictures of my Mom and Pops (and evidence of how much they enjoyed the profiteroles) when they ate at La Brasserie Bordelaise!
Miss her EVERY day!I think they liked them!
Now for pictures from our visit:
We finished with the profiteroles to make sure they were as good as he had remembered them being…….and they certainly were!
After dinner, we walked around the town center known as the Saint-Pierre district before heading back to the boat for the night.
One last view of Bordeaux at night, since we were setting sail on the Dordogne River in the morning for Libourne.
Our last full day and night we spent docked in Paris. For our morning excursions, we split up again: Pops, Tomi, and Bryan made chose the Artists’ Walk of Auvers-sur-Oise, while I made my way over to Château de Malmaison.
They rode the coach to Auvers-sur-Oise and then walked in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh where they visited the Maison Van Gogh and the burial church.
Meanwhile, I visited Château de Malmaison – the “love nest” of Napoleon and Josephine on the left bank of the Seine in Paris. She bought the run down manor house in April 1799 while Napoleon was away in Egypt and paid over 300,000 francs to do the extensive renovations. Along with the renovations to the château, Josephine also created the gardens and brought in several exotic animals and birds during that time. Following her divorce from Napoleon, she remained there until her death in 1814.
Ice house in the property that was used to store gelato, since Josephine loved ice cream. Marengo Tree – Planted in 1800 to celebrate Napoleon’s victory at the Battle of MarengoBilliard RoomMusic RoomJosephine’s bedroom that was originally rectangular, but during the renovations of the château, it was built into a circular shape. Napoleon’s library that included a hidden staircase behind the mirror on left that led to Napoleon’s bedroom. One of the pictures above shows a circular cut out showing the hidden staircase.
Once we all returned to the boat, it was time for our afternoon excursion. We boarded the coach and headed to the port of la Bourdonnais for a Paris city cruise. It was one hour of gorgeous views of the city that you can only experience from the river.
For our final night on the Amalyra, our captain took us on a night cruise for better views of the Eiffel Tower. Tomi came over to our room, and we enjoyed the sights. What a perfect ending to our first week before heading over to our next cruise on the Amadolce! Enjoy the sights of the Eiffel Tower!
(September 9, 2025 – Vernon & Claude Monet’s Home in Giverny)
Our morning was spent cruising to our next destination – Vernon with a much anticipated visit to Claude Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny.
However, before arriving there, the Seine has several locks along the river to allow for the many different water levels. It was amazing to watch Captain Alex maneuver through them. The boat was so close to the walls of the locks – you could literally reach out and touch them as we slowly passed through.
Early morning views along the Seine.
Time lapse video to demonstrate the change in water levels. Once the boat was inside the lock, the water level changed and brought the boat to a higher level. – FASCINATING!
Now, back to Vernon and Giverny. I visited Giverny back in 1993 during a college graduation trip with my Mom, and I remember how beautiful the water lilies and gardens were. Let me just say: it is still just as SPECTACULAR! Be prepared for some flower overload pictures. Everywhere we looked, the flowers were lovely! If you’re not into flowers, just keep scrolling, but I warn you: you’ll be missing out! 😂
The water lilies and pond deserved their own section of pictures below.
After touring the gardens and pond, we ventured into Monet’s home.
View from a window overlooking the garden. The tile work in the kitchen was beautiful. More tile Pops’ artsy mirror shot!Pops & Bryan resting their tired feet!
Once back on the ship, our cruise director announced we needed to set sail right away, due to the possibility of a strike which would make for some difficulties getting through the final locks before Paris. And so, off we went:
Our day was capped off with cocktails in the lounge and dinner with just the four of us as we sailed into Paris (making it safely through the final locks in time before the possible strike)!
Well, after a long hiatus of doing any blog posts, I’m back at it. I decided it was taking too much time trying to blog while enjoying our vacation and free time. Honestly, I don’t know how Mom did it!
Anyhow, we are finally back in the states, but not back home. More about that in a later blog I have yet to do! 😂
On to our next stop – Rouen! We arrived during the night, and after breakfast, Bryan, Pops, and I set off on the Tastes of Normandy walking tour in the city. It included two stops – one for charcuterie and one for chocolate…..two of our favorites.
The charcuterie stop was in a small hotel lobby and included an assortment of cheeses, meats, and cider.
Following the charcuterie stop, we visited a chocolate shop to watch their process for making chocolate, as well as an opportunity to sample their deliciousness!
Once the tour finished up, Pops and I checked out the Beaux Arts Museum and then headed back to the boat.
On our stroll back to the boat, we passed the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen.
The two pictures above show a section on the front of the cathedral to provide an example of the detail of the carving. It was amazing to see how intricate it was on such a large cathedral!
For the afternoon excursion, Bryan and I headed out for a visit to Château de Bonnemare. The château was built in the 16th century, and it has been in the same family since 1888. Our group was treated to a tour by the owner and his son who still live at the château and have opened it up to the public as a Bread & Breakfast and wedding venue.
Room in the barn area for making cider. Apple cider press dating back to the 17th century.Chapel
Following the afternoon tour, we enjoyed cocktail hour with Captain Alex, dinner with some new friends (Cheryl & Andy), and finished off the evening with a cabaret show in the lounge.
After a night of sleep, we were up and off the boat early in Le Havre, since we had a very full day visiting the Normandy Landing Beaches. We had a little over two hour drive before arriving at the Normandy American Cemetery in Colleville-sur-Mer.
To say this was a sobering experience would be an understatement. It is similar to visiting Arlington National Cemetery, but when you consider it contains the graves of the 9,389 men who lost their lives during the D-Day landings and ensuing operations on the Normandy beaches in the area, it somehow feels different.
As you enter the cemetery, you walk along a path on the cliffs above the beach. After a short walk, there is an orientation table showing the various beach landings.
As you turn and walk away from the water, at the top of the path and stairs you arrive to the sight of the endless graves stretched out over the 172.5 acres of the cemetery.
Our tour was timed so we could attend a wreath laying at a memorial in a semicircular colonnade with a bronze statue called the Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves. The statue was titled as such, since those who died here were in their late teens to early twenties.
The man laying the wreath was a retired U.S. Army Ranger and his wife who were visiting the cemetery.
The ceremony consisted of four parts: the playing of the U.S. national anthem, laying of the wreath, playing of Taps, and then having a moment of silence. I’m not typically a very emotional person, but when Taps was played, tears were shed, as I had several different emotions and thoughts running through my mind.
Just outside the semicircular colonnade, there is an area known as the Walls of the Missing. This wall contains the names of the 1,557 men who are missing or never identified. Rosettes mark the names of those men who have since been recovered or identified.
Panoramic view of the Walls of the Missing. Rosette
The pictures above and the one below show the views of the water leading to and from the main part of the cemetery.
Walking around the cemetery provided a time to reflect and gave an even greater appreciation for the men who sacrificed their lives for our freedom.
The pictures below are of the chapel and chapel ceiling located at the far end of the cemetery opposite the bronze statue and semicircular colonnade.
After our time at the cemetery, we visited Omaha Beach which was one of five beach landings on June 6, 1944 also known as D-Day. Over 34,000 Americans came ashore on Omaha Beach. That day, the Allies suffered over 10,300 total casualties, and approximately 2,400 of them were on Omaha Beach.
As a tribute to the Allies who came ashore that day, a sculpture named Les Braves was unveiled on the 60th anniversary of D-Day.
When we left Omaha Beach, we made our way to the German battery of Longues-sur-Mer. It is the only battery remaining in Normandy that still has its original guns. The Germans had a firing range up to nine miles using these guns, but the Allied forces prevailed, and the battery was captured on June 7th.
For our last stop of the day, we visited Arromanches-les-Bains. It was here where a Mulberry Harbor was installed. This artificial port allowed the Allies to disembark 9,000 tons of material per day. Here are some images of what still remains.
Panoramic View
During our stop in Arromanches-les-Bains, Pops wanted to sample their crepes, and I opted for a beer before wandering around the streets for a little bit.
When we returned to the boat, it was time for dinner and some beautiful views of the night sky.
After cruising through the night, we began our first full day by docking in Les Andelys: a small commune made up of two parts – Grand Andely and Petit Aldely.
What a sight it was to open the curtains and outer door to let in some sunlight and be greeted by a fabulous view of Chateau Gaillard and the surrounding white cliffs!
Following breakfast, we set off for our first excursion of the trip with a visit to the ruins of Chateau Gaillard. Unfortunately, we had opted for the “gentle” tour which included a ride up and down the hill, but only provided VIEWS of the ruins instead of exploration of the ruins. The walk up would have been tough, but we probably could have all handled the walk down. Needless to say, Tomi and I don’t plan to do any more “gentle” tours.
Chateau Gallaird was built by Richard the Lionheart in 1198 high above the river Seine.
Following our ride back down the hill, we stopped in at St. Savior Church of Petit-Andely. The church was built within four years and completed in 1202. After a quick look around, we returned to the boat for the afternoon as we set sail for our next destination.
During our afternoon sails, we passed several locks along the river and then enjoyed dinner in the main restaurant.
However, Pops wasn’t ready to turn in for the night. Instead, he wanted to take advantage of Disco Night in the lounge. I didn’t realize he had packed his dancing shoes on this trip, but I was happy to oblige!
We arrived in Le Havre during the night at some point. When we awakened, I opened the curtains to see we were tied off to another river boat – certainly not the best of views from our room, but not to worry, since we knew the best views were outside of our room.
Our first tour in La Havre took us by bus about 15 miles outside of the city to the quaint town of Honfleur. It is an old harbor town where the Seine meets the English Channel. Several Impressionist artists (including Monet) have used Honfleur as a backdrop for some of their works of art. It has homes throughout the village dating anywhere from the 16th to 18th centuries.
We were lucky enough to be in Honfleur on a Saturday when they have an outdoor market lining the little streets. So many sights!
We finished our time in Honfleur at a cafe with a stop for a beer and a coffee. I’ll let you try to guess who had what!
After returning to the boat for lunch, we were ready to head out for our afternoon excursion: a city tour of La Havre. We boarded the busses, and they drove us all around the city. Being a major port city, La Havre was heavily bombed during World War II, and 80% of it was destroyed. Due to scarcity of materials, concrete was used to build most of the new buildings. In 2005, UNESCO inscribed the central city as a World Heritage Site because of its unique post-WWII reconstruction and architecture.
Public LibraryThis red mailbox was a gift to Le Havre from Belgium.Flower Vending MachineThis monument is dedicated to the 1.6 million French people (1 out of 3 men) who lost their lives during WW I. Surprisingly, it was one of the few things not damaged during WW II.
Being located on the entrance to the English Channel, cargo container ships are able to carry up to 24,000 containers and unload them at the port using highly sophisticated cranes. La Havre is now the second largest port in France.
To commemorate the 500th anniversary of Le Havre, Vincent Ganivet constructed this sculpture. It consists of two arches: one arch with 15 containers and the second arch with 21 containers.
The original St. Joseph’s Church was destroyed during WWII, so a new church was built in its place following the war. Completed in 1958, it had a much more modern feel compared to what it once was.
Notice the spiral staircase on the left. Wouldn’t want to have to climb those stairs!The floor is overlayed with cork to absorb sound and keep in the warmth.
Once we returned from our afternoon excursion, we had a few minutes to freshen up before cocktails and dinner. We called it a night, since our next day was a full day to the Normandy U.S. Landing Beaches. Stay tuned……
(Cape Town, Victoria Falls, Masa Mari and Nairobi)
Written by Whitney Bromberg Hawkings |Edited by Pops
We got the package! We picked Pops up from London Heathrow after the first of his two red eyes in a row and he looked no worse for the wear despite not having slept a wink on the first flight. We spent the day at our house in London with the kids and the dogs and eagerly awaited takeoff for our African adventure. Pops had checked his luggage from Austin directly to Cape Town which we all thought was dicey but Pops felt confident his bags would greet him upon his arrival in South Africa.
We arrived at Heathrow for the second time that day with plenty of time to have a drink in the lounge. Pops was concerned about not being able to sleep a second flight in a row so started in the lounge with a whiskey and topped it up with another two on the plane. “I wasn’t taking any chances.” Needless to say, he slept like a baby and arrived in Cape Town in tiptop condition. Upon arrival we were missing one bag and we all laughed and rolled our eyes at Pops’s grand plan to check his bag all the way through. After extensively tracking Pops’s bag in the system, it appeared it actually had made it to South Africa. The joke was on Whitney as her bag was nowhere to be seen and randomly did not make it onto the flight. Luckily, there were an abundance of Safari clothes between us, so she has made camo her sartorial choice even in town. Just call it “Fashion.”
We checked into the Cape Grace hotel where Peter and I have the fondest memories of our trip with Gwap, Kemp and Spence 20 years ago, excited to make new memories with Pops and the kids. After checking in, we set out under the most glorious sunshine imaginable to explore the waterfront. Pops took the kids to his favourite burger and milkshake joint on the wharf, Gibsons,where he has taken almost all of the grandchildren as a right of passage. Michael recognized it immediately after one snapshot of a chocolate fudge brownie milkshake (Pops’s lunch). Peter and I turned a blind eye and ate at the neighbouring restaurant on the water.
We headed to dinner in a trendy neighbourhood called Kloof Street and the restaurant incidentally was called Kloof Street House. Pops surprised us all by ordering ostrich with mustard which was delicious and, after a fondant with 6 spoons, we headed home. We all fell into our beds very early with full hearts and an abundance of gratitude to be able to make these special memories with Pops.
Ostrich!
We all woke up bright and early to a beautiful Cape Town day. We had a delicious staggered breakfasts at the hotel (Pops had a few breakfasts). When we left, we realized we were missing the walking stick Pops has been using since his Punta Cana off-roading muscular injury, so we returned to the hotel restaurant half an hour later to ask the staff if they had seen it. Two of the ladies in the restaurant said they saw him leave with the walking stick earlier after breakfast. Pops joked “good thing I didn’t take any silverware from breakfast.”
We met in the hotel lobby and awaited our guided tour by a lovely South African native, Chris. The tour began on Signal Hill where we had epic views of Lion’s Head, Tabletop Mountain, the Twelve Apostles, and Robben Island (where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 of his 27 incarcerated years). It was quite emotional and powerful to see and to understand Mandela’s impact on the entire nation and the world. We had a 360 degree view from Signal Hill, in many respects better than Pop’s previous views from the top of Table Mountain.
We next went to the Iziko Museum. Iziko means “hearth” in Afrikaans and is symbolic of where history and culture are shared around the fire. It was a wealth of local art and culture. The Iziko Museum is surrounded by the historic Company Gardems where we have a beautiful walk taking in all of the incredible and diverse vegetation and animal life. In the gardens is a prominent statue of Cecil John Rhodes the controversial figure who established Rhodes schlorarships and still remains a central topic of conversation today due to the vast fortune fortune he made off of South African diamond trade. The back of the statue had a large cut made by an angle-grinder as apparently there has been a big movement to “take it down,” along with the history it represents.
After hearing our guide speak passionately about the history of apartheid and colonialism, it is very clear that the history is very complex and deep rooted and still very apparent today, despite the fall of apartheid.
Following a beautiful lunch alfresco where Pops was watching the people (especially the ladies), we had a quick visit to the Sixth District Museum which Pops had visited with Bebe on previous visits. It was another somber reminder of the division this beautiful nation had felt so recently and so acutely. Following this serious and important destination, we had an afternoon of light relief in the beautiful and affluent beach towns of Camps Bay, Cliveden and Bantry Bay which felt almost like the Med, but prettier and with fewer people. Barron has already started looking at properties and trying to understand income tax in South Africa for the first international branch of his business. Needless to say, we are all totally smitten.
Dinner was Indian. Not at Bakhara which Bebe and Pops and we had been to years ago, but that the hotel concierge said was rubbish now. Instead, we went to Bombay Brasserie in the Taj hotel and ate our fill of delicious Indian food before falling into bed for a deep, happy slumber.
We all slept like babies and woke up hopeful for a day of fun at the Cape of Good Hope. Our guide told us that the south southwestern most point of South Africa was initially called the Cape of Storms. However, as news of this travelled to sailors back in Portugal, they were less eager to travel to the east for the King. So the King of Portugal renamed the cape as the Cape of Good Hope to remove the stigma of the prior name to get sailors to venture East for goods and spices.
On our way to the Cape of Good Hope, we stopped to visit the penguins in Simonstown. They were beyond adorable but it was sad to see in the 20 years since Peter and I last visited how the number of penguins had diminished. Chris explained that they were nearing extinction due to our overfishing the waters. It was very sad to see so tangibly how we are damaging nature. As a bonus whilst we were visiting the penguins, we had an unexpected visit by a troop of baboons. The penguins were quite alarmed by these intruders and the tourists, including us, and were both wary and amused by the baboons and their antics. Luckily they left us all alone and climbed up the rocks into the fog.
We had quick stop at the incredible Museum of Man which was the size of a tiny house but so rich in history and beautiful storytelling. There was an interactive animated map which showed how 70,000 years ago all of humanity originated in Africa, and how it is, therefore, home to all of us.
Onward we went to the Cape of Good Hope which was true to its original name today with gale force winds and drizzle. To arrive at the Cape, we passed through an incredible nature reserve where we were lucky to be visited by some ostriches and another family of baboons. We persevered despite the weather out to the tip and got the famous picture for Pops to add to his collection of similar pictures from prior visits- a wonderful memento of an unforgettable day.
On the way back we stopped for a delicious lunch in Simonstown. Upon entering the restaurant for lunch we noticed a statute of a dog. We were told the dog was named Just Nuisance, the only canine naval officer. The pup used to accompany the naval officers out drinking and was the only one who could find the way back home. When the bar sought to limit attendance to naval officers, they named the dog a naval officer and Just Nuisance carried on as their loyal escort and guide.
We headed back up the coast on the other side of Table Mountain with a quick stop at the Silo Museum across from our hotel and adjacent to the wharf which was in the coolest building, made within silos of an old grain factory. The interactive exhibit of contemporary art was fascinating and the building even more so.
We then headed back to the hotel to freshen up for dinner at the Pot Luck Club. Turns out we hit the jackpot with this restaurant recommendation. The menu was “global cuisine.” Each dish was served with a clean plate and a new and different sauce more delicious than the last. It was truly a wonderful and surprising culinary experience.
What better way to start the day then with a double header of wine and cheese tasting and with some billtong too for the meat eaters amongst us? Pops kindly arranged a guide to take us through the famous and extremely charming wine regions of Stellenbosch and Franscchoek. Incidentally, he was called Chris too and gave us a slightly different insight into the South African culture.
On our way to the wine region Chris explained a little bit more about how the “Townships” work (also known as the shacks along the road where the less fortunate South Africans live in extreme poverty) . He also pointed out, in particular, the township across from the airport as we passed and mentioned it is one of the most dangerous in South Africa. Apparently a tourist had taken a wrong turn driving from the airport and ended up within the township and let’s just say he never left. It was a badge of honor in that township to have the number 28 tattooed on one’s face. One could only get that “honor” after one’s 28th kill. It is hard to imagine that there is this level of violent crime given the extremely kind and gentle nature of all of the locals we have encountered.
The first vineyard we visited was called Zevenwacht – which means the seven expectations. It was pretty, but the wine and cheese were fair and Pops said he would have paid to opt out about halfway. The second vineyard we visited was called Marianne with a heavy French influence both in aesthetics and in the wine in the best possible way. We sat around a cozy fire and tried five different wines, the last of which was the wine that Queen Elizabeth served to Nelson Mandela when he was in London for his 90th birthday. That wine was exceptional.
We spent the afternoon at leisure wandering around the wharf after a few action-packed and extremely full and fulfilling days in Cape Town. Dinner at the hotel that evening was appealing, as we all looked forward to a day of travel to begin our safari experiences.
Cape Grace Hotel looking at Silo Contemporary Museum and Silo Hotel
Our next stop was Zimbabwe. We were picked up from the Victoria Falls Airport and transferred to an area outside of town where we were met in a Land Cruiser by our driver Shepherd (who turned out to be our guide for game drives for our entire stay) for the hour long drive along the shores of the Zambezi River downstream from Victoria Falls to our “game camp,” Mpala Jena. It turned out we were the first occupants of Mpala Jena, a 3 bedroom villa with a staff of 9 on the shore of the Zambezi River in the Zambezi National Park ..
After settling in, we were off to see Victoria Falls (which Pops had seen on 2 prior occasions from the Zambia side). A business associate of mine from Zimbabwe graciously treated us to a 22-minute helicopter ride over Victoria Falls.
Shepherd, our guide, spotter and driver, had previously spent 17 years working for the Park Service (12 of which were spent on the anti-poaching task force). He was an expert tracker and all-around good guy with a great sense of humor.
Day 3
For the first time ever, the Hawkings children woke up before the alarm clock for our final Zimbabwe game drive. Our wonderful guide, Shepherd, had thoughtfully packed felt lined hot water bottles on each of our seats – making it even more comfortable and more difficult to leave this magical place. After lunch, we headed to the airport full of love for this wonderful place and these wonderful Zimbabwean people.
Our flight into Nairobi was delayed by about an hour resulting in a landing near midnight. We arrived at our hotel, The Hemingway, within an hour of landing and were all in bed shortly after 1:ooam . It could have been much worse.
We woke up early to take our tiny plane from Nairobi to the Masai Mara with excitement hiding any feelings of fatigue we might have had. Pops and I both were satisfied when we saw the small 20 seater plane knowing that the kids were about to have a very authentic Africa safari experience. The first dirt runway landing of three confirmed our wishes were granted as did our greeting at the Masai Mara “airport ” by two Masai Warriors and a big truck destined for Richard’s River camp. As we arrived at the camp, the kids were quite dubious and probably a bit apprehensive to have left the lap of luxury at the Mpala Jena. We were greeted by a lovely couple Prince and Hannah who immediately told us they were good friends of the managers of Mpala Jena- the camp we just left- funny small world. We were guided to our tents by a Masai warrior, Sylvester, who wielded a club and a sword and told not to leave our tent without supervision which illicited a frisson of excitement and fear in all of us. After a delicious lunch we headed out on our first game drive which also confirmed the authenticity of this amazing Kenyan experience.
Within 10 minutes of setting out from camp, we saw four lions sleeping underneath an acacia tree then proceeded to see an exquisite cheetah with a three week old cheetah cub. We were all transfixed and enchanted immediately. Dinner under the tent was delicious. After dinner we asked to see the guest book to look for Bebe and Pop’s 2021 visit with my brothers and their families. The 2021 visit was during covid and the Kenyan government, in retaliation for action taken by the British government, barred people from Great Britain from entering Kenya. In reviewing Richards River Camp guest book we found years 2021-2023 missing and asked the manager what happened. She said an animal had gotten into the guest book and a few pages had been ripped out. She retrieved the missing pages from a nearby cabinet and we found notes from my brothers and Pops. In addition, we found a photo of the 2021 dining table in the same configuration with all of the Bromberg Goggia families from 2021 in the same spot; and we were all amused to find that we have the same spotter that that group had four years ago. We fell into bed with full hearts and amazing memories of our first day in the Masai Mara.
We were greeted at 6 :00 am by the lovely Ruth with a pot of piping hot coffee and another pot of hot chocolate and no one balked at being awakened before the sunrise. We set out on our game drive to be greeted with another group of lionesses – this time three of the four were heavily pregnant and they were mesmerising to watch. We waited and watched the cheetah with the cub prepare for a kill for a couple of hours before lunch, but hunger got the best of us and we headed back to the camp with excitement on what the afternoon would hold.
The afternoon was filled with giraffes, elephants, gazelles, impalas, and elephants and we were spoiled by the abundance of animals. Pops became the official photographer and captured all of these animals in their amazing glory with discipline and skill. Dinner under the stars at Richard’s River Camp was wonderful and we went to bed with full and happy hearts grateful for this incredible experience with Pops.
We all woke up promptly at 6:00 am the next morning for our morning game drive at 6:30. We soon saw a pride of hungry lionesses who were looking ready for a kill, but the kill never materialized; and the sun came up which our guide told us meant we had lost their chance. We then went to go and see if hunger had gotten the best of the cheetah who was struggling with finding food while also caring for her newborn cub. The cheetahs had 24 hour surveillance of park rangers watching them day and night because the past two times this cheetah had had cubs, the cubs were eaten by hyenas!! Like the Lion King for real. We actually saw a hyena trying to get to the cub and the Park Ranger had to throw stones at it, after unsuccessfully trying to shush it away by shouting and driving towards it. We waited for the cheetah to emerge as it had been three days since she had eaten, but we waited, and waited, and waited, and waited… till Pops finally called time, mercifully, at about 12:30. We all secretly sighed an exhale of relief. It was a great exercise in patience for the TikTok generation in our vehicle looking for constant adrenaline hits, but watching the cheetahs sleep did not make for the most entertaining of game drives.
We arrived at back at the camp to be told we were the only ones at the camp along with another couple and their children. Turns out the couple in question was someone I know quite well from the London art world who also, incidentally, went to Barnard. Funny small world incident, take two.
Our afternoon game drive was more fruitful than our cheetah watch, and we saw a beautiful pride of lions, also hungry and ready for a hunt. We were hoping to see a kill but our timing was a bit off. They were as fascinating as ever to watch and learn about. We had another beautiful night at Richard’s River Camp and again replicated dinner at the same table that Bebe and Pops had eaten at with all of the other Bromberg kids four years ago.
Our last day in the Masa Mara was as action packed as one could have dreamt up. Pops moved to the front seat to act as the spotter today, as we were crossing very rocky terrain. Turns out we saw more action on our final day than any day of the trip. Pops noted that, fortunately, amateur spotting was adequate. On our way to go and see the hippos and crocodiles, we arrived to a large open plain that was the definition of animal action. There were a pride of lions feasting on a large cape buffalo they had just killed, with jackals lurking in the sidelines stealing the bits they could here and there. The hyenas were having none of it and they were stealing from the jackals, and all of this led to an action/comedy show that kept us entertained and riveted for hours. We then crossed a small incline to have breakfast by the Mara river gazing at the noisy hippopotamuses and dodging the menacing crocodiles. Our last day in the Mara was everything we had hoped it could be so far.
We skipped our afternoon game drive after an action packed morning and decided to brave a night drive as we didn’t have an early wake up the following day. It did not disappoint, and we were so lucky that we got to watch and witness the elusive leopard on our final night in the Mara within inches of our vehicle. It was a rare and exceptional spotting, and we all felt privileged and lucky to have had that opportunity. What a place. What a time together. What an experience.
We left the Masai Mara with full hearts and amazing experiences and headed to the airport (landing strip) with William and our real spotter, Sedara.
The plane was almost commercial size and the flight to Nairobi was uneventful. We drove an hour from the airport through a nature reserve to arrive at the Emakoko Lodge. As Pops said, this was meant to be “a soft landing” and a gentle re-entry into the normal world. We had been quite jaded by the amazing wildlife in the Masai Mara, but we’re excited to see black and white rhinoceroses which are the only animal of the big five that we had not seen yet on our trip. After sundowner cocktails in the jeep, we headed back for woodfired pizza under the stars and fell asleep with monkeys crawling around our rooms and on our roofs.
We all awoke from the haze of our Masai Mara come-down, and were cheered by our visit to the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage in Nairobi. I think collectively we could have taught a course on Kenyan elephants, but it was good to hear all of our learnings consolidated in the wonderful presentation.
We all noticed the beautiful roses everywhere in the Emakoko Lodge. With an afternoon in Nairobi to kill before our midnight flight, I had the hare-brained idea to go and visit a Kenyan flower farm that the hotel owner had mentioned in passing. The hotel owner knew the owner of the Kenyan flower farm and made arrangements for us to visit even though it was Sunday. In theory, it was a wonderful idea. In reality, however, maybe less so?! We started on the journey which we were told would take approximately one hour. After almost 2 hours through the Nairobi ghetto on completely unpaved extremely bumpy roads in a truck with no shocks, we arrived at barbed wire fencing with an armed guard and were told that this was our flower farm. I had spent most of the past hour apologising to Pops and my family for dragging them through this, and was even more apologetic when we arrived at the so-called farm. That said, we were given badges and greeted by a lovely man called Andrew (who turned out to be the owner) who proceeded to walk us through his incredible greenhouses filled with the most aromatic and beautiful Kenyan roses. He was very generous in his explanation of how the flowers were grown where they are distributed and was very keen on the idea of working together with my flower company, FlowerBx. Before we left, he showed us the packing station, staffed by numerous workers, which was mesmerising to see. This small farm ships 35,000 flowers a day, so you can only imagine how beautiful, meticulous, and impressive the packing room was. Mercifully the trip home from the farm was on predominately paved roads and took about half of the time as our journey to the farm.
Later in the day, enroute to dinner, we shopped a little at a tourist trap with the magic combination of poor quality and high prices. We then headed to our last African supper together at a buzzy, international, trendy, and totally delicious restaurant called Cultiva-great choice.
Nostalgic, content, grateful, and happy we filled our bellies and headed for the Nairobi airport. Pops had organized the airport meet and greet so seamlessly that we checked in and made it to the lounge in record time and with minimal hassle after the customary 3 security checks. The long-haul flight (the first of two for Pops) was uneventful. Upon landing in London with the heaviest of hearts, we said goodbye to Pops. We hugged and kissed goodbye with the happiest memories of a completely unforgettable and totally perfect trip together to Africa.
{Historically, brombergblogs have been written and sent daily; however, with a new group preparing the blogs, we simply weren’t able to do so for this trip. Hopefully, future blogs reporting on future trips will be sent if not daily, every few days.]
Pops and I set off for Winthrop, Washington, to celebrate the wedding of Sweet Baby Heather (SBH) and Dave. Getting to Winthrop isn’t exactly easy, but it’s absolutely worth the effort. We left Spicewood at 5 a.m. to catch a 7:30 flight to Seattle. As it turned out, we were on the same flight as some other VIPs—Ryan (SBH’s brother), Katie, and Kimber (SBH’s close friend and her daughter). I also taught Pops how to use his watch to board the plane.
After landing and picking up our rental car, we headed to Heather and Dave’s condo to meet up and caravan to Winthrop. Anne—Bebe’s sister and the Mother of the Bride—was already in town, busy helping with the wedding preparations. After a quick stop at the bakery to pick up the wedding cakes, our three-car caravan set off for Winthrop via the North Cascades Scenic Highway. Before reaching the scenic stretch, we made a much-needed pit stop at Jeff’s Texas Style BBQ for some hearty sustenance.
After fueling up with some BBQ, we made our way to North Cascades National Park. Until just last week, a section of this route had been closed, which would have prevented us from reaching Winthrop this way. Fortunately, the road reopened just in time for our journey—and we were lucky to experience such a scenic drive.
Our first stop for photos was at the entrance sign for North Cascades National Park.
Our next stop was the Diablo Lake Overlook. Words—and even photos—can’t fully capture the beauty of the view. By the time we arrived, the wind had picked up, creating a hauntingly beautiful sound as it moved through the trees.
Our next stop was Washington Pass Overlook to see Liberty Bell Mountain. However, the road to the overlook was still closed, and we could see the equipment being used to clear it. We continued a bit farther along the highway to one of the switchbacks, where we found a great view of Liberty Bell Mountain. As you can see from the pictures, the temperature had dropped, and snow was still abundant. This section of the highway had just reopened last week after being recently cleared.
As the sun began to set, we made our way to Sun Mountain Lodge, where the festivities were being held. We arrived just in time for dinner and to take in the breathtaking views of the land surrounding the lodge. It had been a long, rewarding day, filled with the stunning natural beauty of Washington.
The next morning, we were up early for breakfast with a view. With some time to spare before our horseback ride, we wandered around the property and took in the peaceful surroundings. The property was blanketed in wildflowers, with one of the most abundant being balsamroot—often referred to as the “Oregon sunflower.”
This was Pops’ first time on a trail ride, and he was paired with a handsome horse named Teddy. Unfortunately, while attempting to mount, he accidentally launched himself over Teddy instead. Though a bit shaken, he walked away with only a few bruises. The rest of the day was spent resting and getting ready for the couple’s welcome reception.
Sunday morning was absolutely perfect for both a wedding and a birthday celebration! The sun was shining, and the winds had calmed just in time for the couple’s special day. Before the ceremony, Pops and I visited Riding Horse Bakery, a charming spot located along the Methow River.
We took a few photos before the wedding but put our phones away during the ceremony so we could be fully present for the heartfelt celebration of two amazing souls coming together. SBH’s brothers, Zach and Ryan, walked her down the aisle. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a photo of Anne in her gorgeous dress or of the beautiful couple in their finery—but trust me, they were all absolutely glowing with love.
After the ceremony, we gathered for a reception filled with delicious food and heartfelt stories shared by the couple’s family and friends. Each speech sparked both laughter and tears, a testament to the deep love and connection surrounding Heather and Dave. It was clear they are cherished by many and have built a community of truly exceptional people.
One especially touching moment came from Little Heather, a longtime friend of SBH from high school, who offered a beautiful alternative to the traditional bouquet toss. The bouquet was instead dedicated to SBH’s mother, Anne. Tim’s presence was lovingly honored through the bouquet, which included a photo of him with Heather and his wedding ring. Anne also wore the wedding ring Tim’s father had once given him, wrapped around her wrist—a quiet but powerful symbol of enduring love and memory.
In the afternoon, we continued the celebration with a stroll around Winthrop for some sightseeing and shopping.
Monday morning, we were up early for our trip back to Seattle to catch our flight to Austin. We took a different route this time, one that offered equally stunning views as it wound through the Snoqualmie Pass. Heather and Dave had kindly shared a few sightseeing suggestions for our drive to the airport. Our first stop was in Pateros at Sweet River Bakery, where we soaked in the sunshine while enjoying some delicious treats—and were even joined by a winged friend.
Our next stop was in Cle Elum for burgers and shakes at Twin Pines Drive-In. Heather and Dave were spot on—the best burgers, hands down. By the time we left, the parking lot was jam-packed. We had arrived at the perfect time.
Our final stop took us over Snoqualmie Pass to the breathtaking Snoqualmie Falls.
We arrived at the Seattle airport about two and a half hours before our flight. Pops graciously let me arrange wheelchair assistance to help him navigate through SeaTac. With time to spare, we took advantage of the perks at the American Express Lounge. The lounge staff coordinated another wheelchair assist from the lounge to our gate, and the timing couldn’t have been better—the gate agent had just opened boarding and escorted us directly onto the flight. I’m pretty sure the last picture is of glorious Mt. Rainier.
We landed in Austin around midnight and were safely tucked into our beds in Spicewood by 1:30 a.m. The next morning, we made a quick trip to the doctor to ensure Pops hadn’t suffered any serious injuries from his brief horseback encounter. He was diagnosed with a separated acromioclavicular joint and a lower back sprain. While sore, he should recover well with time and some stretching exercises.
Though the reason I was able to attend Heather and Dave’s incredible wedding was bittersweet, I know Bebe would have been grateful that Pops and I could share this adventure together. My heart is full from spending time with family and meeting so many wonderful people who are important to Heather and Dave.
On Wednesday, October 16th we arrived at the Douro Suites, our hotel in the Douro River Valley. It was a very small and wonderful place to stay with a killer view from our room.
They allowed us to eat in the dining room, but normally they deliver dinner in the above picnic baskets.
Another pretty day followed, but we opted to go to the large hotel next to us and get massages. It was time.
The next day was cloudy and sometimes rainy, but off we went anyway. We didn’t get that far as the views were covered in fog and not any better than at our hotel. We did drive through the town of Paco and took the picture because that is the name of our good friend’s dog — except this one did have a sedilla….so pacho.
We really enjoyed the Douro River Valley, but it was time to head south. It was another long (4 hour) drive to the city of Evora. Our first stop was at the Cathedral of Évora, a massive Gothic structure begun in the 12th century.
More of those beautiful blue tiles!
We next went to the Chapel of Bones next door– spooky! Bones Chapel is one of the most popular monuments in Evora. We can even say it is one of its trademarks. Located on 1º de maio square, it is part of the also popular St Francis Church (Igreja de São Francisco).
The chapel was built in the 17th century on the initiative of three Franciscan friars. Their goal: to convey the message of temporariness and fragility of human life. This message clearly comes across to visitors of Bones Chapel right at its entrance through the sign “We bones that are here, for yours we wait”. In fact, it shows Baroque’s men macabre taste for necrophilia.
We were running out of time, so we did not go past the Temple of Diana, but I want to include a stock photo picture so your visit is complete. We would have liked it! Well, that was not as easy as I thought. If you want to see it, just google it — lots of pix online 🙂
We headed to our stop for that night at the Convento do Espinheiro. The history and origin of the Convento do Espinheiro is linked to a legend that tells of the apparition of an image of the Virgin on a thorn bush, around 1400. In 1412, a chapel was built in honour of Our Lady and given the growing importance of this place as a pilgrimage site, in 1458, during the reign of D. Afonso V, the church was founded and later the convent, which was populated by monks of the Order of St. Jerome.
And more pics the next morning. It really was a beautiful place!
So then we were off for another 2+ hours to reach the Algarve, the southern coast of Portugal that is filled with all its beaches. The weather there is, reputedly, most always sunny and mild. It definitely was during our stay, but a little too cool for Texans in the pools or beach!!
Our hotel, the Algarve Dome Hotel, was great — the room was wonderful, the view great and there were three pools — one unheated (where the kids played), one heated (sorta) and the last one with a sand beach (the bottom was concrete but it was all covered with sand –pretty neat idea!).
On the afternoon that we arrived we did lie out by the pool. That night we went to an Indian restaurant that I had read great things about, Natraj Indian Tandoori. It truly was wonderful; we had the best Rogan Josh there that I have ever had!!!
We had signed up to take a cruise along the coast on the next day. It was so pretty.
It was great going into a cave — and one with an opening at the top! Our boat was too large to go very far, but it was still fun.
And the drinks were fun as well….
We went back to the Indian restaurant again that night — so good! But John really didn’t want his picture taken again — I cropped out the part you shouldn’t see!!!!
On our last day there we were just lazy; I think we were worn out from going so hard and we needed to pack everything that we would not need on our last night at the Lisbon airport. We needed a little “down time”.
We drove to the Melia Lisbon Airport, spent the night and had a noonish departure the next day — a nice and easy agenda!
Loved the trip and loved telling you all about it.
